Easy Crochet Hat & Scarf (Free Patterns)

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Other patterns from Patchworked Crochet

Hyacinth Sweater
Marigold Wrap Skirt
Daisy Halter Top
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Materials

Size M crochet hook

Stitch marker

Super bulky weight yarn

Yarn needle

Gauge

10 stitches x 7 rows

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Abbreviations

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half-double crochet

Blhdc – back-loop half-double crochet

Flhdc – front-loop half-double crochet

2 hdc – half-double crochet two in same stitch, 1 increase

Dc – double crochet

Shell stitch – Skip 1 stitch, 5 dc into second stitch, skip 1 stitch, sc 1

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Hat (75 yards)

Chain 3, sl st into first stitch

Round 1: Hdc 1 into circle, insert stitch marker, hdc 6 <7>

Round 2: 2 Hdc, replace stitch marker. 2 hdc in each remaining stitch in the round <14>

Round 3: Hdc 1, replace stitch marker, 2 hdc. *Hdc 1, 2 hdc* (Repeat until the end of the round) <21>

Round 4: Hdc 1, replace stitch marker, hdc 1, 2 hdc. *Hdc 2, 2 hdc* (Repeat until the end of the round) <28>

Round 5: Hdc 1, replace stitch marker, hdc 2, 2 hdc. *Hdc 3, 2 hdc* (Repeat until the end of the round) <35>

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Round 6: Hdc 1, replace stitch marker, hdc 3, 2 hdc. *Hdc 4, 2 hdc* (Repeat until the end of the round) <42>

Round 7: Hdc 1, replace stitch marker, hdc 4, 2 hdc. *Hdc 5, 2 hdc* (Repeat until the end of the round) <49>

Round 8: Hdc 1, replace stitch marker. Hdc 48 <49>

Repeat Round 8 through Round 14.

Round 15: Remove stitch marker. Sc 2, sl st 2, skip 2 stitches, 5 dc, skip 1 stitch, sc 1. Shell stitch 10. Skip 1 stitch, 5 dc, skip 1 stitch, sl st, end and weave in tails.

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Scarf (290 yards)

Chain 24

Row 1: Hdc in second chain from hook, in each following chain, chain 1

Row 2: Flhdc in first stitch *Blhdc 1, flhdc 1* Repeat until end of row, chain 1

Repeat Row 2 until scarf reaches desired length (yarn estimate is based on a scarf 102 rows long). End and weave in ends.

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Easy Autumn Mini Skirt (Free Crochet Pattern)

Model is 5′ 3″ and wearing a size 33

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This skirt is worked in one piece in the round from top-down and a customizable length with super bulky yarn (6). The yarn estimates are based on a 14 inch skirt, as shown on the model, and the amount of yarn needed will vary with the length of the piece.

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Other patterns from Patchworked Crochet

Hyacinth Sweater
Marigold Wrap Skirt
Daisy Halter Top
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Materials

Super bulky yarn (180, 200, 215, 230, 245, 260, 276, 295, 310, 325, 340 yards)

Size P crochet hook

Yarn needle

Stitch marker

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Gauge

7 stitches x 5 rows (4″ x 4″ square, double crochet)

Abbreviations

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half-double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Dc 2 – double crochet in each of the next two stitches

2 dc – double crochet twice in the next stitch, one increase

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Sizing

Sizes are based on measurement at the waist.

23 in, 25 in, 27 in, 29 in, 31 in, 33 in, 35 in, 37 in, 39 in, 41 in

Unless otherwise specified in the pattern, instructions are listed in order of increasing size:

Size 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43) – Chain 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

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Instructions

Chain 38, 41, 45, 48, 52, 55, 59, 62, 66, 69, 73

Round 1: Sl st to join and insert stitch marker. Sl st 1, sc 2, hdc in each remaining stitch in the round

Try on the piece at this point to ensure that it fits the waist comfortably.

Round 2: Hdc in each stitch in the round

Round 3: *Dc 4, 2 dc* Repeat instructions in ** until the end of the round

Rounds 4 – 5: Dc in each stitch in the round

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Round 6: *Dc 5, 2 dc* Repeat instructions in ** until the end of the round

Rounds 7 – 10: Dc in each stitch in the round

Round 11: *Dc 6, 2 dc* Repeat instructions in ** until the end of the round

Round 12: Dc in each stitch in the round

Repeat Round 12 until the skirt reaches the desired length.

To end final round: 2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 sl st, end and weave in all tails.

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Easy Ribbed Wrap Skirt (Free Crochet Pattern)

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Make with super bulky yarn this piece is perfect for cooler fall temperatures. The skirt works up quickly in one piece and can be easily adjusted to customize the piece to your measurements and desired length.

The skirt worn by the model is 20″ in length, altering the length of the skirt will impact the amount of yarn needed.

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Allium Dish Cloth
Azalea Square-Neck Tank Top
Sage V-Neck Tank Top
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Materials

Super bulky weight yarn (approximately 10 yards per inch in length)

Size P crochet hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

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Gauge

9 stitches x 6 rows (4″ x 4″ half-double crochet)

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Abbreviations

Hdc – half-double crochet

Blhdc – back-loop half-double crochet

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Instructions

Body

Chain 32

Row 1: Hdc in second chain from hook, hdc in each stitch until the end of the row, chain 1 <31>

Row 2: Blhdc 30, hdc 1, chain 1 <31>

Repeat Row 2 until the panel is large enough to comfortably wrap around the body 1.5 times at the waist.

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Edging

Row 1: Chain 1, and turn the piece sideways. Hdc into the edge of the final body row, insert a stitch marker. Hdc into each row along the edge of the piece, chain 1

Row 2: Blhdc into each stitch until the one with the stitch marker. Hdc, chain 1. Remove stitch marker.

Row 3: Blhdc into each stitch until the final one in the row, hdc 1, chain 1.

Repeat Row 3 until the panel of the skirt reaches the desired length. End and weave in all tails.

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Assembly

Try on the panel of the skirt with one corner at the front of the waist and wrapping the remainder around the waist. Mark the places on the piece where the corners on either end of the waistband must be attached. Attach each of these corners as needed with a yarn needle. Add another stitch to secure the overlap in the front of the skirt if desired.

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Tie Strap Dress (Free Crochet Pattern)

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Since this is a tank dress, I would recommend using a light worsted weight yarn which is light in mass. Something cotton or linen rather than a heavier material. A flare skirt like this requires a fair amount of material and using a lighter mass yarn will make this piece much more comfortable to wear. The dress is held up by the tie straps which will sit better if the mass of the dress is lighter. I used Lion Brand TruBoo yarn for this dress and while it is extremely soft, reflects light beautifully, and is something which I’ve loved in other projects, that particular yarn makes this specific dress a bit too heavy to comfortably wear.

The fit of this dress is easy to customize; it is worked in two parts – the bodice and the skirt. I would recommend trying on the piece after completing the bodice instructions and checking the length, then add or remove rounds as needed. For the skirt, make sure to try on the dress before ending the piece to ensure the length is correct for what you want in the dress. The bodice of this dress is worked in half-double crochet and the skirt and straps are in double crochet.

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Other patterns you might be interested in:

Sage V-neck Tank
Primrose Skirt
Marigold Wrap Skirt
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Materials

Light worsted yarn (1400, 1500, 1600, 1700, 1800, 1900, 2000, 2100, 2200 yards)

Size G crochet hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Gauge

9 stitches x 8 rows (2″ x 2″ square – half-double crochet)

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Abbreviations

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half-double crochet

Dc – double crochet

2 dc – one increase, double crochet two stitches into same stitch

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Sizing

Sizes are based on measurement at the bust.

30 in, 32 in, 34 in, 36 in, 38 in, 40 in, 42 in, 44 in, 46 in (The foundation chain for each of these stitches varies by nine stitches, so if you’d like to make this dress for someone with a bust measurement of, for example, 28 or 48 inches, you would either subtract 9 stitches from the foundation chain to make a size 30 or add nine stitches to the foundation chain to make a size 46)

Unless otherwise specified in the pattern instructions are listed in order of increasing size:

Sc 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65) – Instructions for size 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

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Instructions

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Body

Chain 111 (120, 129, 138, 147, 156, 165, 174, 183)

Round 1: Making certain the chain is not twisted, sl st to join the first stitch to the final one. Insert stitch marker into this slip stitch. Sl st into second chain, sc 2, hdc into each remaining chain in the round <111, 120, 129, 138, 147, 156, 165, 174, 183>

Round 2: Hdc into each stitch in round <111, 120, 129, 138, 147, 156, 165, 174, 183>

Repeat Round 2 until the body reaches desired length and continue to instructions for the skirt. The end of the bodice in the dress in the pictures hits me just above my natural waist, at roughly the bottom of my ribs, and is 32 rounds long. If you would like the bodice to be shorted or longer, add or remove rows accordingly.

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Skirt

Round 1: *Dc 2, 2 dc* (Repeat until the end of the round)

Round 2: *Dc 3, 2 dc* (Repeat until the end of the round)

Rounds 3 – 4: Dc in each stitch in round

Round 5: *Dc 4, 2 dc* (repeat until the end of the round)

Rounds 6 – 8: Dc in each stitch in the round

Round 9: *Dc 5, 2 dc* (repeat until end of the round)

Rounds 10 – 12: Dc in each stitch in the round

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Round 13: *Dc 6, 2 dc* (repeat until end of the round)

Rounds 14 – 18: Dc in each stitch in the round

Round 19: *Dc 7, 2 dc* (repeat until end of the round)

Rounds 20 – 24: Dc in each stitch in the round

Round 25: *Dc 8, 2 dc* (repeat until end of the round)

Round 26: Dc in each stitch in the round

Repeat Round 26 until skirt reaches desired length. Yarn estimates are based on ending after 42 rounds, so if you would like the skirt a different length, adjust the amount of yarn accordingly.

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Straps (make 4)

Chain 8

Row 1: Dc in third chain from hook, dc 5, chain 2 <6>

Row 2: Dc 6, chain 2 <6>

Repeat Row 2 through Row 41 (42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49)

Final Row: Dc 6, end and weave in tails <6>

Assembly

Fold the body of the dress in half with the start of the first round in the center. Measure 2.5 inches in from either edge and pin a strap in place. Flip the dress over, and pin the other two straps 2 inches in from either edge of the folded bodice. Try on the dress and adjust the position of the straps as desired. Sew the straps in place and weave in all ends.

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Flare Mini Skirt (Free Crochet Pattern)

Model is 5′ 3″ and wearing a size 27

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Flare or A-line skirts are some of my favorites because they still allow for full range of motion unlike some more fitted styles. This skirt has two ties at the waistband and a slit at the top so putting it on is much easier.

Yarn amounts are based on a skirt 15 inches in length from the top of the waist to the bottom edge of the skirt. If you would like a longer or shorter piece, adjust the amount of yarn accordingly.

Other patterns you might be interested in:

Marigold Wrap Skirt
Azalea Square-neck Top
Buttercup Button-front Top

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Materials

Worsted weight yarn (420, 460, 500, 540, 580, 620, 660, 700, 740, 780 yards)

Size H crochet hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Gauge

15 stitches x 9 rows (4″ x 4″ square – double crochet)

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Abbreviations

Dc – double crochet

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half-double crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

2 dc – one increase, double crochet twice in the same stitch

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Sizing

Sizes are based on measurement at the waist.

23 in, 25 in, 27 in, 29 in, 31 in, 33 in, 35 in, 37 in, 39 in, 41 in

Unless otherwise specified in the pattern, instructions are listed in order of increasing size:

Size 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43) – Chain 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

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Instructions

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Chain 114 (120, 129, 135, 144, 150, 159, 165, 174, 180)

Row 1: Dc in third chain from hook and dc in each remaining stitch, chain 2 <112, 118, 127, 133, 142, 148, 157, 163, 172, 178>

Row 2: Dc 87 (93,102, 108, 117, 123, 132, 138, 147, 153) chain 27 <87, 93, 102, 108, 117, 123, 132, 138, 147, 153>

Row 3: Dc in third chain from hook. Dc in each remaining stitch, chain 2 <112, 118, 127, 133, 142, 148, 157, 163, 172, 178>

Row 4: *Dc 2, 2 dc* (Complete instructions in ** until the end of the row). Chain 2.

Rows 5 – 7: Dc in each stitch in row, chain 2.

Rows 8 – 9: Dc 8, chain 2 <8> [see picture below]

Row 10: Dc 8, end and weave in tails <8>

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Body

Round 1: On the end of the piece opposite the flap, sl into the first stitch, insert stitch marker. Sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc in every stitch until the flap.

Round 2: Dc into stitch with stitch marker, dc 2, 2 dc. *Dc 3, 2 dc* (Repeat ** until end of the round)

Rounds 3 – 8: Dc in each stitch in the round

Round 9: *Dc 4, 2 dc* (Repeat ** until end of the round)

Rounds 10 – 15: Dc in each stitch in the round

Round 16: *Dc 5, 2 dc* (Repeat ** until end of the round)

Round 17: Dc in each stitch in the round

Repeat Round 17 until the skirt reaches the desired length. To end the final round; hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 2, end and weave in all tails

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Ties (make 2)

Chain 27

Row 1: Dc in third chain from hook, dc 24, end and weave in tails <25>

Assembly

Try on the skirt. Mark the places the ties should be attached to the side to fasten the skirt to fit and sew in place

Easy V-neck Sleeveless Top (Free Crochet Pattern)

Model is 5′ 3″ and wearing a size 34

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This top is slightly oversized, if you prefer a more fitted top, I would suggest sizing down. First you will make the separate straps, and then join them with a round of double crochet before working the body of the top in circular crochet.

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Other patterns you might be interested in:

Marigold Wrap Skirt
Daisy Halter Top
Hyacinth Sweater
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Materials

Sport weight yarn – amount will vary based on desired length of the top (piece shown uses 600 yards)

Size E crochet hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Gauge

19 stitches x 11 rows (4″ x 4″ square – double crochet)

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Sizing (measurement at the bust)

Sizes are based on measurement at the bust.

30 in, 32 in, 34 in, 36 in, 38 in, 40 in, 42 in, 44 in

Unless otherwise specified in the pattern instructions are listed in order of increasing size:

Sc 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65) – Instructions for size 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

Abbreviations

Dc – double crochet

Hdc – half-double crochet

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

2 dc – double crochet twice in the same stitch (1 increase)

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Instructions

Straps (make 4)

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Chain 8

Row 1: Dc in third chain from hook, dc 5, chain 2 <6>

Row 2: Dc 6, chain 2 <6>

Repeat Row 2 through Row 6

Row 7: 2 dc, dc until end of row, chain 2 <7>

Row 8: Dc until final stitch in row, 2 dc, chain 2 <8>

Repeat Row 7 and Row 8 another four times

Row 17: 2 dc, dc 15, chain 2 <17>

Row 18: 2 dc, dc 15, 2 dc, chain 2 <19>

Row 19: 2 dc, dc 16, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <22>

Row 20: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 19, 2 dc, chain 2 <25>

Row 21: 2 dc, dc 22, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <28>

Continue to instructions for desired size.

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Size 30

Row 22: 2 dc, 2dc, dc 24, 2 dc, 2 dc chain 2 <32>

Row 23: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 28, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <36>

Row 24: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 32, 2 dc, 2 dc <40>

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Sizes 32 & 34

Row 22: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 25, 2 dc, chain 2 <31>

Row 23: 2 dc, dc 28, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <34>

Row 24: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 30, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <38>

Final row size 32 – Row 25: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 34, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <42>

Size 34 only – Row 26: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 39, 2 dc <45>

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Sizes 36 & 38

Row 22: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 25, 2 dc, chain 2 <31>

Row 23: 2 dc, dc 28, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <34>

Row 24: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 31, 2 dc, chain 2 <37>

Row 25: 2 dc, dc 34, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <40>

Row 26: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 37, 2 dc, chain 2 <43>

Final Row size 36 – Row 27: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 39, 2 dc, 2 dc <47>

Size 38 Only – Row 28: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 44, 2 dc <50>

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Sizes 40 & 42

Row 22: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 25, 2 dc, chain 2 <31>

Row 23: 2 dc, dc 28, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <34>

Row 24: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 31, 2 dc, chain 2 <37>

Row 25: 2 dc, dc 34, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <40>

Row 26: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 37, 2 dc, chain 2 <43>

Row 27: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 39, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <47>

Row 28: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 44, 2 dc, chain 2 <50>

Final Row Size 40 – Row 29: 2 dc, dc 48, 2 dc <52>

Size 42 Only – Row 30: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 49, 2 dc <55>

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Size 44

Row 22: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 25, 2 dc, chain 2 <31>

Row 23: 2 dc, dc 28, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <34>

Row 24: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 31, 2 dc, chain 2 <37>

Row 25: 2 dc, dc 34, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <40>

Row 26: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 37, 2 dc, chain 2 <43>

Row 27: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 39, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2 <47>

Row 28: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 44, 2 dc, chain 2 <50>

Row 29: 2 dc, dc 48, 2 dc, chain 2 <52>

Row 30: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 49, 2 dc, chain 2 <55>

Row 31: 2 dc, dc 53, 2 dc <57>

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Body

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Line up the straps as shown in the picture above. The V-shaped openings will be the front and back and the rounded ones are the arm holes. Start the first body round at the base of one of the rounded opening and continue across the bottom of this strap and the others.

Round 1: Sl st 1 and insert a stitch marker. Sl st, sc 2, hdc 2, dc in every remaining stitch on the bottom of the straps <160, 168, 180, 188, 200, 208, 220, 228>

Round 2: Dc into stitch with marker, replace marker (Make certain the first round isn’t twisted) Dc into each remaining stitch in the round <160, 168, 180, 188, 200, 208, 220, 228>

Repeat Round 2 until the top reaches the desired length.

Final round: Dc in each stitch until the final six. Hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 2, end and weave in ends.

Assembly

Fold the top in half with the V-shaped opening in the center. The front and back of each strap should align. Sew these straps together.

Scallop Hem Halter-neck Top (Free Crochet Pattern)

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The body of this pattern is almost entirely double crochet, so it works up fast and the length of the top is easy to customize. I used a worsted weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn in my project and since this is a summer top, I would recommend either something of a similar composition or a yarn that is entirely cotton or linen.

Like the Buttercup Top and Meadow Backpack, I designed this as a present for a friend, so the high halter neckline and shell stitch hem on this top are inspired by pieces of clothing in their existing wardrobe.

If you would like this top to be longer, simply add more rounds to the body before the round of the shell stitch at the hem and adjust the amount of yarn accordingly.

Other patterns you might be interested in:

Azalea Square-neck Top
Meadow Backpack
Primrose Flare Skirt
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Model is 5′ 2″ and wearing a medium.

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Materials

Worsted weight yarn – 160, 180, 200, 220, 240, 260, 280, 300 yards

Size H Hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Gauge

16 stitches x 10 rows (4″ x 4″ square double crochet)

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Abbreviations

Dc – double crochet

Sc – single crochet

Sc 30 means “single crochet in the next thirty stitches” 

2 sc means “crochet two in the next stitch” or one increase

Sizing (measurement at bust)

Sizes are based on measurement at the bust.

30 in, 32 in, 34 in, 36 in, 38 in, 40 in, 42 in, 44 in

Unless otherwise specified in the pattern instructions are listed in order of increasing size:

Sc 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65) – Instructions for size 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

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Instructions

Chain 162

Row 1: Dc in third chain from hook, dc 159, chain 2, turn <160>

Row 2: Skip two chains, dc 160, bind off <160>

Row 3: Skip 70 stitches. 2 dc, dc 18, 2 dc, chain 2, turn <22>

Skip to instructions for the desired size

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Sizes 30 & 32

Row 4: Dc 22, chain 2 <22>

Row 5: 2 dc, dc 20, 2 dc, chain 2 <24>

Row 6: Dc 24, chain 2 <24>

Row 7: 2 dc, dc 22, 2 dc, chain 2 <26>

Row 8: Dc 26, chain 2 <26>

Row 9 – 10: 2 dc, dc until final stitch in the row, 2 dc, chain 2

Row 11: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 26, 2 dc, 2 dc <34>

End and continue to Body instructions

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Sizes 34 & 36

Row 4: 2 dc, dc 20, 2 dc, chain 2 <24>

Rows 5 – 6: Dc 24, chain 2 <24>

Rows 7 – 11: 2 dc, dc until final stitch in row, 2 dc, chain 2

Row 12: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 30, 2 dc, 2 dc <38>

End and continue to Body instructions

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Sizes 38 & 40

Row 4: 2 dc, dc 20, 2 dc, chain 2 <24>

Rows 5 – 11: 2 dc, dc until final stitch in row, 2 dc, chain 2

Row 12: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 34, 2 dc, 2 dc <42>

Row 13: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 38, 2 dc, 2 dc <46>

End and continue to Body instructions

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Sizes 42 & 44

Row 4: 2 dc, dc 20, 2 dc, chain 2 <24>

Rows 5 – 9: 2 dc, dc until final stitch in row, 2 dc, chain 2

Rows 10 – 13: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc until second to last stitch in row, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 2

Row 14: 2 dc, 2 dc, dc 38, 2 dc, 2 dc <54>

End and continue to Body instructions

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Body

For this part of the top, you will chain, then double crochet across the bottom of the halter part of the top, more chain stitches, and joining the ends of the chain to form the round.

Round 1: Chain 27 (31, 35, 39, 39, 43, 43, 47), 2 dc, 2 dc, dc in each stitch until two remain, 2 dc, 2 dc, chain 27 (31, 35, 39, 39, 43, 43, 47). Sl st to join, chain 2.

Round 2: Dc in third stitch from work, place a stitch marker, dc in every stitch in the round, sl st to join.

Round 3: Chain 2, dc into first stitch in round, replace stitch marker, dc in each stitch in the round, sl st to join.

Repeat Round 3 until the top reaches the desired length, then continue to Final Round.

Final Round: *Skip 1 stitch, 5 dc, skip 1 stitch, sc 1* Repeat instructions in the  ** until the end of the row, sl st to join, end and weave in all ends.

Easy Reusable Crochet Produce Bag (Free Pattern)

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Switching to reusable produce bags in the grocery store is an easy way to reduce the amount of single-use plastic you consume. To alter the diameter of the bag, add another round of increases before continuing to the main body of the bag.

I made the produce bag in an acrylic sport weight yarn I had left over from another project, the same yarn I used for the Tulip headband. This reusable bag is worked primarily in treble crochet to form a mesh and can be finished in just a few hours.

Check out the Peony Tote for another reusable grocery bag pattern.

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Materials

Sport weight yarn (200 yards)

Size E crochet hook

Gauge

9 stitches x 4 rows (2″ x 2″ square treble crochet)

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Abbreviations

Sl st – slip stitch

Tr – treble crochet

Tr 1 – treble crochet 1

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Instructions

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Chain 4, sl st to join with first stitch

Round 1: Chain 6, *tr into the ring, chain 3* (Perform instructions in ** a total of six times, there should be six total tr stitches), sl st to join with third stitch in chain 6.

Round 2: Chain 6, tr into same stitch as sl st, chain 3. *Skip 3 stitches, tr 1, chain 3, tr 1 into same stitch, chain 3* (Perform instructions in ** a total of six times) Sl st to join with third chain in chain 6.

Round 3: Chain 6, tr into same stitch as sl st, chain 3. *Skip 3 stitches, tr 1, chain 3, tr 1 into same stitch, chain 3* (Perform instructions in ** a total of thirteen times) Sl st to join with third chain in chain 6.

Round 4: Chain 6, *skip 3 stitches, tr 1, chain 3* (Perform instructions in ** a total of 27 times). Sl st to join with third chain in chain 6.

Repeat Round 4 until the bag reaches the desired length, weave in all ends (The bag shown in the pictures has 24 rounds)

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Square Neck Sweater (Free Crochet Pattern)

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This pattern combines a square neckline with wide sleeves for a sweater which is vaguely fantasy inspired. I, personally, love interesting necklines and sleeves in my sweaters and this piece includes both. The sweater I made has sleeves slightly short of 3/4 length, which makes it something I’ll most likely wear in the fall or spring. If your prefer full-length sleeves or a longer sweater, simply add extra rows to that part of the project and plan to use additional yarn.

The majority of this project is in double crochet, so it works up quickly. Also, the sweater is worked in the round from the top down, so adding or removing rounds to adjust the length and fit of the sweater for you is easy.

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Model is 5′ 3″ and wearing a size 34

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Materials

Worsted weight yarn – 850 (900, 950, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1150, 1200, 1250) yards

Yarn needle

Size H hook

Stitch markers (5)

Gauge

15 stitches x 9 rows (4″ x 4″ square double crochet)

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Abbreviations

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half-double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Sizing

Sizes are based on measurement at the bust.

30 in, 32 in, 34 in, 36 in, 38 in, 40 in, 42 in, 44 in, 46 in

Unless otherwise specified in the pattern instructions are listed in order of increasing size:

Sc 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65) – Instructions for size 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

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Instructions

Yoke

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Chain 100, sl st to join

Round 1: Sl st 1and insert a stitch marker. Sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 5, 2 dc, 3 dc, insert a stitch marker in the middle stitch. *2 dc, dc 22, 2 dc, 3 dc, insert a stitch marker in the middle stitch* Repeat instructions in * an additional two times (three total). 2 dc, dc 11 <116>

Round 2: Dc 1, replace stitch marker. *Dc in each stitch until the one before the stitch marker. 2 dc, 3 dc, insert stitch marker in middle stitch, 2 dc.* Repeat instructions in * three times (Four times total). Dc in each stitch until stitch marker <132>

Repeat Round 2 through Round 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16; then continue to Body

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Body

Round 1: Dc 1, replace stitch marker. Dc in each stitch through the first stitch marker. Remove stitch marker and skip each stitch until next stitch marker. Dc in stitch with stitch marker, dc in each stitch through the one with the next stitch marker, remove stitch marker. Skip each stitch until next stitch marker, dc in stitch with stitch marker. Remove stitch marker, dc in each stitch until end of round.

*Try on the top at this point to make sure the yoke fits. If the arm holes are too small, repeat yoke Round 2 and try it on again.

Round 2: Dc in each stitch in the round

Repeat Round 2 until Round 18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26)

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Round 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27): Dc in each stitch until underneath first armhole, 2 dc, dc until underneath second armhole, 2 dc, dc in each stitch until end of round.

Repeat Round 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27) until top is 3/4″ from desired length. Vary the position of the increases.

2nd to last round: Dc in each stitch until 4 stitches before stitch marker. Hdc 2, sc 2.

Final round: Sc in each stitch in the round, sl st 2. End and weave in ends.

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Sleeves (repeat on each side)

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Round 1: Sl st at the bottom of the opening for the arm, insert stitch marker. Sl stitch into first double crochet, sc into same double crochet. Sc 1, hdc 2, dc in each remaining stitch of round.

Round 2: Dc in each stitch in round.

Repeat Round 2 until sleeves reach desired length.

Final Round: Dc in each stitch until the last six stitches in round. Hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 2. End and weave in ends.

Easy Peplum Top (Free Crochet Pattern)

Model is 5′ 3″ and wearing a size 34

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The Lilac Peplum Top is worked in one piece in double crochet with minimal sewing required (only weaving in ends). Like the Hyacinth Sweater, this short-sleeved peplum top is worked top-down in the round. Since this project is worked top-down, customizing the length just requires you to add or remove rounds as necessary. For the best fit, I recommend trying on the top at minimum after completing the yoke, after the final round of decreases in the body, and after completing the final rounds of the peplum.

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Other patterns from Patchworked Crochet

Azalea Square-Neck Top
Primrose Flare Skirt
Lantana Reusable Produce Bag
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Materials

Worsted weight yarn (550, 575, 600, 625, 650, 675, 700, 725, 750)

Size H crochet hook

Stitch markers (5)

Yarn needle

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Gauge

14 stitches x 9 rows (4″ x 4″ square – double crochet)

Abbreviations

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half-double crochet

Dc – double crochet

V-stitch – double crochet into a stitch, chain 1, dc into same stitch

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Sizing

Sizes are based on measurement at the bust.

30 in, 32 in, 34 in, 36 in, 38 in, 40 in, 42 in, 44 in, 46 in

Unless otherwise specified in the pattern instructions are listed in order of increasing size:

Sc 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65) – Instructions for size 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

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Instructions

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Yoke

Chain 60 (74, 80, 94, 100, 114, 120, 150, 164), sl st to join

Round 1: Sl st, insert stitch marker. Sl st, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2 (4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14), v-stitch, insert stitch marker into chain. Dc 11 (14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 23, 26, 27), v-stitch, insert stitch marker through chain. Dc 17 (21, 23, 27, 29, 33, 35, 39, 41), v-stitch, insert stitch marker through chain. Dc 11 (14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 23, 26, 27), v-stitch, insert stitch marker through chain. Dc until next stitch marker.

Round 2: Dc 1, replace stitch marker. *Dc in each stitch until stitch marker. V-stitch into chain, replace stitch marker in chain.* Repeat instructions in * until the end of the round.

Repeat Round 2 until Round 16 (16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20).

Try on the top; ensure that the side of the yoke between the first and second v-stitches is long enough to fit comfortable around the upper arm. This will serve as the arm opening for the finished top. Add or remove Round 2 as necessary until this portion of the top fits comfortably.

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Body

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Round 1: Dc 1, dc in each stitch until first stitch marker, dc into chain stitch. Skip all stitches until chain with second stitch marker. Dc into chain stitch, dc in each stitch until third stitch marker, dc into chain stitch. Skip all stitches until chain with fourth stitch marker, dc into chain stitch. Dc in each remain stitch in round.

Rounds 2 – 3: Dc in each stitch in round.

Round 4: Dc in each stitch until the first sleeve opening and dc two together (1 decrease). Dc in each stitch until the second sleeve opening and dc two together (1 decrease). Dc in each remaining stitch in the round.

Repeat Round 4 through Round 11 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15). Vary the placement of the decreases each round (same general location, not the same exact one)

Try on the top at this point. Add or subtract rounds if necessary until the top reaches that point at which you would like the ruffle to start (this point in the top shown is approximately 1.5 inches above my natural waist).

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Round 12 (12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16): *Dc 2, 2 dc* Repeat until the end of the round [Depending on the size of the top and number of increases, the number of stitches in the previous round may not be divisible by three, so just repeat the instructions in the ** as many times as possible in this round]

Rounds 13 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17): Dc in each stitch in round

Round 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18): *Dc 3, 2 dc* Repeat until the end of the round

Round 15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19): Dc in each stitch in round

Repeat Round 15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19) until top reaches the desired length (The top shown has 24 total body rounds)

To end the final round, hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 2, tie and weave in all ends

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